It can be hard to imagine a time when Kota (the old walled city) was nearly the entire city of Jakarta.
That is the very reason, though, that the area is considered such a historical goldmine.
Go back a few hundred years to when Kota was surrounded by a defensive wall and moat to keep the ruling government safe inside while the riff-raff and would-be plunderers were held at bay on the outside.
Imagine the energy and excitement the Europeans felt as they explored and exploited a new land, their wealth rolling in and power growing.
For the Asian community as well, there was plenty of money to be made if one was in the right position to do it.
Others found themselves slaving away for a pittance.
The heart of Kota, which means ‘fortified place’ in Sanskrit, is Taman Fatahillah (Fatahillah Square). A number of historically vital buildings surround it, including the City Hall of Batavia. Many are now museums.
While the square itself is plain, it is driven by the energy it draws from the crowds of local and foreign tourists, the special events, the cultural performances and the throngs of young, cool kids who come to hang out and be seen.
While the area has massive potential to become the pride and joy of the city, at the moment it is still fairly grungy.
The leaders with the ability to transform it into something truly special still lack the communication and coordination to do so.
That being said, there is something special about pedaling around on a forest green Dutch-era bicycle wearing a woven explorer’s hat and posing in front of the cannons once used to repel would-be invaders.
Once it’s time for a break, stepping into the cool confines of Café Batavia for a cocktail will do wonders for the soul.
Be aware that it can become extremely hot during the day and there is little shade, so come well prepared and start early. Sundays are very busy: swarms of young school children armed with English ‘surveys’ look to practice their English and snap pictures with visitors. The first half dozen students may be cute, but after that it can get old. Feel free to say no, but stay pleasant about it.
Walking tour
Taman Fatahillah (Fatahillah Square) was named after the commander of the Cirebon forces who, in 1526, surrounded Sunda Kelapa, as Jakarta was then known, and burned it down. He is considered the founder of Jakarta since he then rebuilt the city, naming it Jayakarta.
The Portuguese during this time steered clear of Fatahillah, who had developed a deep hatred for them after they took over his hometown in north Sumatra. Fatahillah so disliked the Portuguese that when 30 of them swam to the shore of Jayakarta after their boat was shipwrecked, he had his soldiers beat and kill them all.
In the centre of the square sits a replica of an octagonal fountain that was first built in 1743.
Water from this fountain once flowed from the Ciliwung River in Glodok via an underground brick pipe.
Until around 1650, the water was fairly drinkable, but soon after it became intolerable: polluted by trash, human waste and hospital offal. Unfortunately, a peek inside will afford a similar view even today.
Historically, the square was a joyous location, as it was the sight of public markets and all-night feasts and festivals up through the 18th century. It had a dark side, too, as a place where countless tortures and punishments were meted out.
On the eastern side of the square sat a sawhorse with a sharpened back. Prisoners would be forced to sit there for days with weights dangling from their feet, until the device slowly sliced them in two.
Executions by guillotine, gallows or sword were held on certain days each month, and were overseen from the second floor of the courthouse by the judges who ordered the sentences.
Slaves hated bearing witness to the killings, since they made up the highest number of victims.
Other types of torture included branding, whipping or impalement, with the accused left to die slow, terrible deaths while straddling sharpened metal stakes.
Chaining a person to the ground before dropping a heavy wheel on him was not uncommon, nor was stretching a prisoner
until he confessed, cutting off his ears, putting him in a cage to face ridicule or forcing him to wear an iron necklace.
Cycling tour
The square boasts a plethora of bicycles for rent, most of which are ancient, all-steel, Dutch-era cruisers. Rent one to tool around Fatahillah Square or go big and hire a guide to take you round the sites.
Some guides will also provide two-seater bicycles for those who don’t feel confident pedaling on their own. Each bike comes with an explorer’s sun hat and a ring-ting-tinging bell.
The usual route includes the Maritime Museum, the Watchtower, the Fish Market, Sunda Kelapa Port and the Chicken Market Bridge, all of which are just north of Kota.
At each spot the guide will extol his knowledge of the historical facts and figures, although generally this will be in Indonesian as most don’t speak English.
For additional sites, check out the guide’s brochure. A highly recommended route – though it involves a jaunt up narrow, traffic-clogged lanes – is the one past the temples in Chinatown and the old St Maria de Fatima Catholic church.
Settle on a price before pushing off, but don’t bargain too hard as these guys are living a fairly tough life, with many spending the night sleeping rough in the square.
Guides may not provide much assistance while cycling across busy roads. Most will make a token wave at the traffic, leaving you to follow quickly behind or fend for yourself.
Who?
This tour is for everyone. It’s short enough that a whole family can do it and it doesn’t require you to step too far out of your comfort zone.
How long?
If this tour is done strictly as a walk, without stopping along the way, it will take less than an hour. If a number of the museums are explored, a leisurely lunch is eaten and the opportunity to wheel around on a rented bicycle is taken, it could take all day.
How far?
3.5km to the VOC Building and back.
Getting there
Take Busway #1 to its terminus at Kota. Those driving can come via Jln Gajah Mada or the Harbor toll road. Both traffic and parking can be challenging in the Kota area, so taxis or the Busway are recommended. From the Busway, exit on the Bank Mandiri side – watch for the signs. If coming by taxi, ask to be dropped off at the Bank Mandiri Museum.
Getting started
Upon exiting the Busway, follow the direction of traffic toward the Bank Mandiri Museum just ahead on the left. Continue along to enter the Bank of Indonesia Museum, which is just past the Bank Mandiri Museum.
Both bank museums are good escapes from the heat and traffic, but they are still ultimately museums about banks, so don’t plan your whole day around them. They do provide interesting insights into the past, however, and are certainly worth a stroll around.
The Bank of Indonesia Museum has gone the extra step of presenting some of its information via multimedia, and is therefore a bit more interesting for kids.
Next, carefully cross the busy road on the right and proceed straight, passing between the large concrete balls installed to keep the traffic out. Continue on to Taman Fatahillah.