It’s here that we find ourselves indulging in an array of contemporary Italian dishes prepared by Chef Pongsakorn “Toh” Laopaledee. He serves us up traditional appetisers to get us started: melon wrapped in parma ham, a small cocktail di scampi (with seafood) and a side of tuna tartar. Parma ham and melon always surprises my tastebuds since it’s both sweet and slightly savoury, though Chef Toh’s hint of olive oil brings out all of the hidden flavours within both ingredients.
Next up he brings out a plate of Capesante Scottate (seared scallops), cooked to perfection with only a slight char on either side, which locks in the intense flavor inside.
The scallops were a great segue to the duck with curry sauce that made its way to our table. The meaty, yet juicy duck was far from fatty – it was perhaps the leanest piece of duck I’ve had in a long time. The curry, an unusual pairing with duck, made the dish sing with a slight kick. We found ourselves soaking the duck in a cup of curry sauce on the side.
As you dine, it’s easy to admire the tropical environment surrounding the restaurant. While Dewa sits just steps from the beach, it’s nestled between a small, quiet village and Sirinath National Park, which adds an element of seclusion to the experience. The resort itself is separated into two: one geared towards families while the other side is for honeymooners or romantic getaways. The Terrace Grill sits between both sides of the resort, as if telling guests “hey, we could all meet here for dinner!”.
And dinner should always include the restaurant’s rack of lamb, a feast for the eyes and stomach. There are few dishes that pack on as much flavour as lamb and this didn’t disappoint. Four pieces of the tender meat are arranged with the bones artfully holding them together at one end of the plate as mashed sweet potato stares at the meat on the other side. Each bite should always include a bit of each item, if only because they complement each other so well.
The night was coming to a close when Chef Toh brought out a dish that included a some of Dewa’s most popular desserts: the apple pie, coconut cheesecake and the molten chocolate cake. The chocolate cake was clearly a hit, with the molten fudge oozing out onto the other two desserts (anything with chocolate is going to be enhanced!). Though the apple pie was great, the coconut cheesecake was better. All of these desserts, however, would be great for kids as well!


