THE PAVILIONS PHUKET EPL Prediction Competition 2018-2019 Kata Rocks
Login | Create Account Poll Currency Weather Facebook Youtube Search

100 years as intellectual hub

IRAQ: Seated at tables with glasses of tea in the heart of Baghdad’s bookshop district, the customers of Shabandar cafe have watched 100 years of Iraq’s tumultuous history pass by.

culturereligionviolencemilitary
By AFP

Sunday 10 December 2017, 04:00PM


Peddlars sell fruit in their stalls at Al-Mutanabbi St street outside Iraq’s century old Shabandar cafe, one of the capital Baghdad’s few remaining traditional cultural cafes. Photo: Ahmad Al-Rubaya / AFP

Peddlars sell fruit in their stalls at Al-Mutanabbi St street outside Iraq’s century old Shabandar cafe, one of the capital Baghdad’s few remaining traditional cultural cafes. Photo: Ahmad Al-Rubaya / AFP

Since opening its doors a century ago, the establishment has become a hub of Baghdad’s intellectual life, drawing poets and politicians to its wooden benches and photo-lined walls.

“I’ve been coming here for the past 60 years,” Abdel Fattah al-Noeimi, 77, says, dapper in his spotless brown suit and matching tie.

“At nine in the morning until two or three in the afternoon, when everyone is leaving.”

From British rule to modern-day Iraq, Shabandar has lived through the birth of a nation, the toppling of its monarchy, decades of domination by Saddam Hussein, the drama of the US-led invasion and the bloody chaos that followed.

The twists and tragedies have all left their mark on the cafe.

During the sectarian bloodletting, a car bomb in 2007 tore through the historic Al-Mutanabbi St on which the cafe stands – killing around 100 people.

Among the dead were four sons and a grandson of Shabandar’s owner, Mohammed al-Khashali.

But Khashali does not want to dwell on that tragic event – and today the rhythm of clinking tea glasses, bubbling hookah pipes and conversation hums just as it always has done.

“Taking a seat here is like taking a seat in a history book,” the proprietor says from his regular position by the glass and wood front doors.

When it first became a cafe in 1917, the brick and plaster building was already a local institution as it housed the printing press of merchant Abdel Majid al-Shabandar – whose name comes from Turkish, meaning “the greatest of merchants”.

Khashali – who sports a traditional white robe and beard of the same colour – took over in 1963 and made a decision that would prove defining: he banned all games, including cards and dominoes, from the cafe.

QSI International School Phuket

While the move surprised some customers, it meant the new owner stayed true to a “promise” he had made to himself.

“That this would be a place where people of culture would meet,” Khashali said.

“That is truly what happened.”

Dozens of black and white photographs covering the walls of the cafe offer a glimpse into the history of Baghdad and Iraq, chronicling some of its leading lights and others who have since slipped into obscurity.

In a golden book, a number of foreign ambassadors have left their signatures.

The diversity of the faces of the men and women lining the walls is echoed nowadays by the varied crowd that still packs into Shabandar each morning.

The cafe is “not reserved for any religion, or culture or part of society – everyone is here”, says regular patron Noeimi.

It even encompasses a certain “school of thought” of its own, he insists, where despite the profound divisions that have torn apart Iraqi society, “everyone respects each others’ ideas”.

As the hubbub of chatter and shouted orders rumbles on around him, Rammah Abdelamir, 17, looks up from his book on modern political thought to take in this “monument of old Baghdad”.

Waiters weave between customers, filling their glasses with steaming hot tea, as they barely look up from deep in their conversations.

“This place is a bit of a mecca for intellectuals and a place of learning for each new generation,” Abdelamir says.

 

 

Comment on this story

* Please login to comment. If you do not have an account please register below by simply entering a username, password and email address. You can still leave your comment below at the same time.

Comments Here:
Comments Left:
# Characters
Username:
Password:
E-mail:
Security:

Be the first to comment.

Have a news tip-off? Click here

 

Phuket community
Kata Rocks ends the use of plastic straws

I am sorry hinny,but where did i defend Thailand and his environmental problems in my comments? I wa...(Read More)


Australia kills four sharks after tourist attacks

So 4 poor sharks die for nothing. About the same as police going and shooting 4 street dogs after a...(Read More)


Kata Rocks ends the use of plastic straws

So your argument is Singapore is less considerate towards the environment than Thailand as they use ...(Read More)


Final preparations being made to raise ’Phoenix’

"Can't wait until the news of the final salvage is posted on here or why needing a daily up...(Read More)


Japanese tourist, 62, drowns at Karon Beach

Yeah...lifeguards at Karon are pathetic...lazy and not worthy of the job they hold. Just beach bums ...(Read More)


Final preparations being made to raise ’Phoenix’

Can't wait until the news of the final salvage is posted on here or why needing a daily update o...(Read More)


Kata Rocks ends the use of plastic straws

But if they are so environmentally aware hinny,how come they still using plastic straws at all in Si...(Read More)


Final preparations being made to raise ’Phoenix’

"Kurt why you dont just go there and find it out by yourself" what is wrong with kurt aski...(Read More)


Police arrest three drug suspects on the same Phuket Town street

The problem with any Thai "mafia" is they are often protected by high level officials....(Read More)


Police arrest three drug suspects on the same Phuket Town street

"Are people really thinking arresting drug-lords would change something" makes a lot more ...(Read More)


 

Melbourne Cup 2018