Hmmm, with a curious frown I gave him a soft top and watched as he ran straight into the shore break, and without paddling tried to jump on the board to his feet as the wave dumped past him.
Three and a half minutes later he returned completely exhausted and had a look on his face which read, this surfing thing is not for me.
I'll be the first to admit that surfing takes perseverance, tonnes of water up the nose and days where you catch next to no waves. But when it clicks, and every wave starts to give you that exciting thrill which you were striving for, it was definitely worth all the effort. Just ask any surfer.
Now beginners listen up! Don’t be prideful like the man above, get a proper lesson, start surfing on beaches that have an easy paddle out or a rip current channel, don’t surf at low tide where the waves will dump on the shore, and always use a surf board that’s right for your weight and ability.
Don’t be discouraged if you can’t surf like everyone else at first, as there are many techniques that can help your surfing improve, but initially just remember, keep going, keep trying, keep surfing and ask other surfers for assistance.
Tim’s tip: Beginners, borrow or rent different boards so you get a feel for what works for you before you buy.
See you in the water!