Finding free-time that lines up with quality surf is few and far between these days. It just happens you know… one day you’re surf fit and scoring waves… next thing you know you’ve got a career, kids, mortgage and hopefully a kick-arse wife. But even with a kick-arse wife you still gotta combat the onset of surfers depression.
So I put my foot down and decided at least twice a year I deserved a good hit, to get my surf-fix.
This habit is real. I committed to ten days recovery where I could get ON IT and return to life refreshed and recovered, you know what I mean?
Hence another trip to one of my favourite spots in the world, Keramas Beach in Bali. I booked a room and put the word out to see who else needed a surf- fix combined with some ‘R n R’.
My mate D Man (Hayden Rhodes) was also suffering from surfers depression and hit me up,
“I’m in, just tell me where and when”.
Considering we were both in need of surfing rehab… we decided… best to leave wives and young kids at home… don’t wanna be distracted when your scoring right?
The Keramas wave is one of the most fun right hand breaks in the world. It breaks just 20 metres off the beach into an easy channel. Luckily there is a rip you can use to help drag yourself back out for another wave when your surfing fitness is lacking. Over five-six feet and it gets heavy with big slabbing barrels that sorts out the boys from the men and turns arms to jelly.
If you don’t want jelly arms – do Hayden’s fast surfing fitness program before going on your next surfing holiday – he’s the real deal.
Hayden’s a machine. The guy lives and breathes surfing fitness and health. He was up at dawn surfing, following that with morning yoga, clocking a lunchtime massage or surf, then another yoga class in the afternoon before paddling out for a sunset surf.
He repeated that everyday, sometimes even getting in a night surf.
He typically cleaned up two main courses at dinner (yes two) a bunch of cocktails, and often threw in a dessert. I quite like his surfing training approach to surfing nutrition!
He started talking about hiking a volcano in the middle of the night… I said to him, “D Man … we are in rehab… rehab is for focusing on surfing.” I told him, “If ya gonna do something, do it properly mate – don’t get distracted.”
Mt Buta is located nearby, and on the third day in he ignored my surf training advice and set off at 2am in the morning in pitch black darkness with a torch. He watched the sun rise, clambered down and then paddled out to surf. I opted to stay in bed and see the photos. When I do rehab, I do it properly you know.
Anyway, after 12 days my rehab was up, it was 12 days of my favourite drug supplied by the ocean without breaking the bank and 10 days of good to excellent waves.
I think of my little surf-fixes as mental maintenance and highly recommend shooting off for a surf / sanity trip regularly.
If you haven’t been surfing for awhile and want some fast surfing fitness or improved flexibility for surfing, ask Hayden to help you out – he sure knows his stuff.
I wasn’t ready to head back to the grind, yet I was surfed out and getting back to work and family and the hot wife ain’t all bad. Snigger snigger. Do what you love and do it often people.
Hayden Rhodes (Club Manager of Phukets Finest Health Club - RPM Health Club) is the creator of Surf Training Secrets and is known for his enthusiasm and lifelong love of health, fitness, adventure and surfing. He has been helping people improve their human performance while surfing and snowboarding around the world for more then 20 years. Hayden believes everyone has the ability to improve their lives and promotes health as much as he promotes fitness. He continues to study, surf and snowboard around the world and looks forward to helping you and your surfing body.