Now, for the viewer it’s great entertainment seeing that surfer free fall 10 feet and smash into the bottom of the wave only to be picked back up & rolled back to the top of the waves lip and once again thrown down like a sack of potatoes.
Like I said, great entertainment, but in some situations you can’t help how you get wiped out by the wave. But most times you can avoid hurting yourself and others by taking these simple steps.
Jump away from your board so it won’t hit you, and jump as if you are jumping into shallow water by not fully extending yourself.
Try and go bum first, minimising the chance of hitting the bottom. NEVER GO head first!
Cover your head as you hit the water and don’t come to the surface too quickly as you might hit your board on the way up.
When on the surface, regather your board quickly so it’s not flopping around. You can do this by pulling on your leash, bringing the board close to you.
But most importantly, stay calm & relax.
Wiping out is a part of surfing, but practising and using these tips will make wiping out a lot safer.
Tim’s Tip: Keep your eyes forward when on the wave, this will help with your balance and keep you standing up longer.