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Changing tides in Khao Lak

KHAO LAK: Simon Ostheimer looks into the haunted past of Khao Lak, and finds a bright future. Photos by Kiri Heald.


By Simon Ostheimer

Monday 25 February 2013 11:15 AM


 

In November 2012, Hollywood released The Impossible, a heartbreaking movie that relived the tragic events of the 2004 tsunami.

Based on the true story of a Spanish family that survived, in one memorable scene a wall of water comes straight at the viewer, as a father frantically tries to get his two young boys to safety.

The on-screen wave was of course a CGI creation by a special effects team, but the one that hit the shores of Phuket and Phang Nga on that Boxing Day was not.

One of the worst affected areas was Khao Lak, a resort area a few hours north of Phuket, where at least 4,000 people died – a number that included locals, tourists and Burmese migrants.

Today, most of the damage has been repaired, with new resorts being built on land where beach huts had been savagely washed away, and replanting programmes helping to re-green a devastated coastline that in many places simply disappeared.

While people have moved on, and the tourism industry is once again booming – sat at any resort breakfast, you’ll likely find yourself surrounded by the sounds of Swedish and German conversation – there are still markers of what happened that day.

There are blue street signposts that point the way for evacuation routes, warning you to get to higher ground, and distinctive tsunami shelters – simple concrete buildings raised up on stilts – stand all along the coastal roads, ready in case the impossible should happen again.

There is also another poignant reminder.

On December 26, 2004, the 20 metre long Thai Police Boat 813 was sat at anchor about 1 nautical mile off the coast of Khao Lak, put in place to protect Her Royal Highness Ubonrat Rajakanya Siriwaddhana Phannawaddee, who was staying at a local resort with her family.

The power of the tsunami was such that the vessel was swept almost two kilometres inland, eventually coming to rest close to the tree line of the jungle.

It was then left there, rusting, in a quiet empty field to act as a reminder of what had happened. Now, however, the boat is the epicentre of a construction site, as a memorial park is built around it.

A work in progress when we recently visited, it is due for completion later this year, and will incorporate a visitors centre, children’s area, amphitheatre and museum. One can only hope that it also still offers a place for quiet reflection.

It’s little known that Khao Lak actually has two tsunami memorials.

The other is in a small seaside village called Baan Nam Khen, where a wave-shaped tunnel is lined with plaques dedicated to the dead.

However, the more moving scene is to be found down by the shore, where local children run and play on the beach and families picnic under the shady trees.

It’s a sign that life has once again reclaimed this land from the past, that laughter and happiness have replaced cries and sorrow.

The events of some nine years ago may never be forgotten – and they should not be – but by placing December 26, 2004 within the context of history, we are all able to embrace the future.

 

Where to stay

Ramada Khao Lak

Fronted by pristine white sand beaches, close to outlying islands, with lush tropical foliage, comfortable contemporary rooms and villas, sumptuous dining choices, rejuvenating spa treatments and more, the Ramada Resort Khao Lak features a stylish collection of spacious rooms as well as stunning beachfront and private pool villas.

The resort also features two restaurants serving cuisine from around the world, a spa and an array of leisure and recreational facilities.

For reservations contact: 076 427 777 or rsvn@ramadakhaolak.comwww.ramadakhaolak.com